The men’s shows kicked off another season of digital presentations. Despite the continuing lockdown, the collections looked beyond knitwear and updated tracksuits. Yes, there were Zegna’s elevated chore jackets and those luxurious robe coats and pajama suits at Fendi, but these were beautiful pieces meant for those who want to be out and about. Take the golden embroidered coat that opened the Dior Homme show. Now that deserves a dinner out followed by a show at the theater and possibly a nightcap at the Carlyle. Creative director Kim Jones took cues from his predecessor Marc Bohan, who was the creative director of Dior from the 1960s through 80s, dressing Grace Kelly and collaborating with radical feminist artist Niki de Saint Phalle. Jones adorned his jackets with star buttons inspired by one of Bohan’s haute couture dresses from the 1960s and collaborated with Scottish artist Peter Doig.
At Louis Vuitton, creative director Virgil Abloh explored the idea of archetypes and their dress codes and sought to change the preconceptions we have of those codes. He presented airplane-shaped handbags, floor-length coats, kilts. and puffer jackets that were full on 3D cityscapes.
Surprisingly, there were looks for the ladies as well. Casablanca debuted its first women’s collection alongside the men’s. J.W. Anderson featured actress Sophie Okonedo of the Netflix series Ratched alongside a cast of cabbages, cauliflower, and gourds while Balenciaga showed male and female looks in an online interactive video game titled “Afterworld: The Age of Tomorrow.”
Ahead are some of our favorite moments from the men’s Fall/Winter 2021 shows
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