Jean Paul Gaultier is dependable for so quite a few well-known fashion traits and style and design motifs that it can be difficult to bear in mind them all. Fortuitously, Olivier Rousteing’s one-off haute couture selection for the French property, proven in Paris on Wednesday, serves as a bold reminder of each and every a person of them.
Rousteing follows designers Chitose Abe and Glenn Martens in producing a one-off couture collection for Gaultier, inspired by the retired designer’s legacy. And if he commenced his design and style process for this collection by mind-dumping every single single issue the identify “Jean Paul Gaultier” introduced up, he did not go away out a single aspect from that list. That stated, the Balmain creative director put his possess spin on those codes.
For instance, Gaultier’s famed sailor stripes are patch-worked with scarf motifs into grungey menswear shirts and jackets, or protected in tattoo styles on pores and skin-tight sheer tops. (This is element of a men’s prepared-to-don aspect project that released the couture range.) There are countless iterations of the brand’s conical bra condition, produced well-known by Madonna — on bustiers, blazers and robes, like 1 built of a woven basket substance à la caned home furniture. Rousteing seriously pushes the envelope when it comes to materials, which includes with sculptural attire produced from what appears like shiny silver and gold metal, meant to resemble Gaultier’s well-known Le Male and Classique fragrance bottles. Trompe-l’oeil approaches — a different Gaultier most loved — carry even far more whimsy to the runway. Although, I’m not confident who but Rihanna influenced Rousteing to display two leather-clad baby bumps, also showcasing the cone boobs.
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Rousteing also incorporates some of his very own recognizable Balmain signatures into the selection, like sculptural, get together-ready mini dresses and gowns with exaggerated hip and shoulder silhouettes. But as he told WWD, “This collaboration aided me to fully grasp who I am without Balmain.”
See every single look from the Olivier Rousteing for Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture assortment in the gallery beneath.